Lazy Days or Outdoor Action: Hayama Has It All, Just an Hour from Tokyo
Hayama, a laid-back beach town only one hour from Tokyo, is home to an Imperial Villa, charming cafes, a commanding view of Fuji, spectacular sunsets over the sea, and outdoor activities from surfing to hiking the nearby hills. Here's a lowdown of things to do in this chill town.
By Katrina VinluanRoyals and Relaxation: Isshiki Beach
Hayama is described in the town's official guidebook as a place where "where the sea and mountains meet." Its appealing location has drawn people here for centuries; rulers during the Kamakura period (1185-1333) built villas here, and the present Imperial family still maintains one that sits just inland from Ishiki beach. Its presence here helps give the beach its peaceful atmosphere--a laid-back, neighborly stretch of sand that is ideal for walks on the beach in any season, or for hanging out during the summer at one of the umi no ie, or beach houses, that pop up for sun and sea lovers.
Isshiki beach is a good place to open a Shonan craft brew (which should be available at the shops by the train station), while munching on Hayama Beef Potato Chips. Anyone is free to inhale the fresh breeze first thing in the morning. If you prefer sports over lazing around, SUP boarding and Beach Tennis are a few things you can do on Isshiki Beach. On a clear day, the beach also offers front row seats to a view of Mt. Fuji across Sagami Bay, and the nearby rock pools are a favorite for families with kids to search for marine life discoveries.
Tea and Zen: Hayama Shiosai Park and Imperial Villa
The walled-off villa used by the present members of the Imperial family is, of course, carefully guarded and off limits to the public. But adjacent to the villa is an attraction where visitors can get a rare glimpse of imperial life. Now known as the Hayama Shiosai Park, this former villa annex of the Imperial Family is open to the public. Inside a sprawling beach-side pine forest is an exquisite Japanese garden with waterfalls and strolling paths, as well as two tea rooms, one of which serves drinks, including traditional Japanese matcha tea.
The entrance fee to the park also includes access to a museum featuring fascinating exhibits of marine species native to the shores of Hayama, the subject of research conducted by the Showa emperor. Relics of wood planks of early boats used along the Hayama shores can be found, as well as a vintage canoe which an early generation of Japanese royals used to enjoy.
Art and Atmosphere: The Hayama Museum of Modern Art
A short stroll from Hayama Shiosai Park, and just up the path from Isshiki Beach, is Japan's first public modern museum. As may be expected from its location, this land where Hayama Museum of Modern Art stands, was once another royal villa, this one belonging to Japan's Prince Takamatsu and his family. The collection is extensive, with about 3,000 works from Japanese artists who've introduced Western artistic style to the country. There are seasonal exhibits of both Japanese and international artists, and an annex building hosting a stylish cafe with a view of the sea, and a museum shop offering Hayama-themed souvenirs.
Shrine by the Sea: Morito Daimyojin
Hayama hosts a number of shrines and summer is marked by lively festivals celebrating their deities. One of the most picturesque shrines is Morito Daimyojin Shrine, which hosts a number of deities, including guardians of easy childbirth, marriage, pets, and "throats."
The shrine was established in the early 12th century by the shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo, who ascended to shogun after a previous devastating loss. He attributed his good fortune to the spirit of Mishima Myojin, which he originally worshipped in Kamakura. Other historical figures have performed warrior clan sports such as yabusame and kasagake, two styles of shooting arrows from horsebackin this area. The latter shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, who unified the country in the 17th century, donated seven mythical stones to be kept in this spot.
Offshore from the shrine is Najima Island, with its postcard-worthy view of torii gate rising from the sea with Mt. Fuji once again as a background.
Coastal Cruising: Hayama Marina
Hayama has been a thriving fishing village for many years, but it is also the birthplace of yachting in Japan, even serving as the location for the yachting competitions at the Tokyo 2021 Olympic Games. Boating is not only for the rich and famous; in fact, you can join a cruise for about 45 minutes, from Hayama Marina. You will pass people enjoying sailing, windsurfing, and kayaking, on a route that goes by Morito Jinja and Enoshima Tower. On one side are the lush coastal hills, on the other Mt. Fuji. This experience is one of the options that come with the purchase of a Hayama Day Pass.
The Hayama Marina also has a number of (a little overpriced) restaurants and shops selling marine goods and fashion. I'd recommend going to one of the many other restaurants around Hayama if you're hungry.
Local Fish & Chips: The Gazebo
The Gazebo is a friendly favorite of local Hayama residents and visitors, who come here for the delicious, crisply battered fish & chips made from the freshest local catch of the day, the poke bowls, and other dishes made in the open kitchen. The vibe of the interior (which includes an open "terrace" that is dog friendly) is pure beach house, fitting for its location, a stone's throw from Morito Beach. The Gazebo is open on weekends only.
Dark Arts Coffee
While Hayama has an abundance of cafes, legit coffee roasters and dessert spots, like most places in Japan it's hard to find a good breakfast or brunch place. But Dark Arts Coffee is perfect for both early risers and late sleepers, who might have a whole day of exploring planned in Hayama or just want to sit down with a good book and a strong cup of java. Jacobo and his friendly staff offer an extensive list of roasts to choose from, the sourdough bread is freshly baked, and the English breakfast is as British as can be. The lunch meals are all as hearty as they are tasty.
Restoration with Beans: Cafetero Hayama
Japan has been trending in foreign news media for the growing number of akiya or abandoned houses. In some areas of the country, old houses with no heirs willing to live in them are sold for cheap or, in some cases, even given away. Real estate hunters, including an increasing number of foreigners, have taken on these homes and have turned them to AirBnBs, rest houses, and cafes.
One such place in Hayama is Cafetero Hayama, owned by Ricki Oshita, an importer of Costa Rican coffee. He's spent most of his years working in finance in Brazil, Peru, and Paraguay. Fluent in Spanish and English, Mr. Oshita is glad to hold a conversation with you about his life story, in this once abandoned house which has been turned a home for good coffee. Committed to sustainability, Mr. Oshita is also uses commonly discarded coffee cherries to make Craft Cherry Cola (a liqueur for mixing to soda water), a natural energy drink, rich in antioxidants.
Dessert With a View: Marlowe Hayama
Good news if you're on a gluten-free diet, because Hayama's "pride pudding" and cakes are all gluten free. Rich and decadent, Marlowe Pudding comes in special Japanese flavors you'll rarely find anywhere else, such as Hojicha or Roasted Green Tea and Matcha. A pudding sampler is also available, with seasonal flavors along with the bestseller original. Pasta and other seafood dishes are also on the menu, and Marlowe is one of the eateries where a meal is included in the Keikyu Hayama Day Pass.
Where to Stay: Oceanside Locations
There are more bed and breakfast places than there are hotel rooms in Hayama, as a quick search will attest. But Umi no Hotel boasts windows with views of the sea, as well as an onsen from where you can see Mt. Fuji on a clear day. If you're on a budget, the hotel has bunk beds, those capsule-hotel-like spaces that are clean and comfortable, with females-only and all-gender areas, priced about ¥10,000 yen, which comes with free breakfast.
For those with the urge to splurge, Scapes the Suite has four luxury rooms overlooking Morito Beach.
The Canvas Hayama consists of three villas within easy walking distance of Isshiki Beach, all of which come with fully equipped kitchens, making them ideal for family stays.
Hiking the Hills: the "Hayama Alps"
Hikers will find the hills of Hayama, which rise up quickly from the edges of this coastal town, a perfect place for exploration. Known affectionately as the "Hayama Alps," the hills are criss-crossed with trails, one 9km route going as far as the city of Yokosuka on the other side of the Miura Peninsula. Though they are classified as intermediate, and the hills are low, the slopes are steep and there are spots rugged enough to have ropes attached to help hikers along. At points along the trail, spectacular views of both coasts can be had, particularly during winter when the leaves have fallen.
How to Get Here
Zushi is the nearest JR station. The Shonan Shinjuku line runs here from Tokyo stops such as Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ebisu, and Yokohama, while the Yokosuka line runs from Tokyo Station, with stops in Shinagawa and Yokohama, among others. The nearest private line station is Zushi-Hayama station on the Keikyu Line, which runs from Asakusa and Shinagawa through Yokohama. Hayama is a five minute bus ride from either of these stations.